Jajce, Bosnia and Herzegovina, has a spectacular waterfall in the middle of a town. It has a fascinating history from medieval times to the founding of Yugoslavia. But somehow, Jajce has remained Bosnia’s best-kept travel secret.
Discover Bosnia’s hidden gem in this VIDEO. Then read on to discover:
- Where is Jajce, Bosnia and Herzegovina?
- Top things to see in Jajce
- What to Eat in Jajce
- Where to Stay in Jajce
Where is Jajce, Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Most tourism in Bosnia and Herzegovina focuses on Sarajevo, the capital city that was under siege during the Balkan Wars of the 1990s. Today, peaceful Sarajevo welcomes visitors to tour the war sites or take a day trip to the iconic bridge in Mostar. And you can hike on Sarajevo’s abandoned bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympics.
Jajce is only 160 kilometers (100 miles) from the capital. But it sees few tourists. From Sarajevo or from Plitvice Lakes on the border with Croatia, expect about two hours drive on mostly two-lane highways. It’s a popular destination for motorcyclists and bicycle tours. You can book a guided tour as a day trip from Sarajevo.
Waterfalls surround the medieval town of Jajce, Bosna and Herzegovina, with rushing water and views everywhere you look. Except for school groups, we never saw a tour bus. Jajce rewards the independent traveler with plenty to see and do.
What to See in Jajce: Pliva Waterfall
The Pliva Waterfall has been called the Niagara Falls of Bosnia. The water drops 23 meters (75 feet) at a point where the Pliva and Vrbas rivers meet. It is literally in the center of town, right next to the bus station. There are plenty of free photo opportunities on both sides of the river as you stroll around the center.
You can pay 10 Bosnian marks (5 euros) to access the viewing platform at the massive Pliva Waterfall in Jajce. it’s cool to stand close to the rushing water and feel its power while you take a photo like this. But it’s not the best view, in my opinion.
For the best view of the Pliva Waterfall and the charming town of Jajce, walk past the bus station out of town on the bridge over the main highway across the Vrbas River. Pass the Bosnian cemetery and then look on the left for a path that leads down to a viewing area. Pro tip: the best view is in spring or fall because lush foliage partially blocks the panorama in the summertime. The friendly tourist information office in town gave me directions in English when I couldn’t find it on my own.
Mlinčići and Pliva Lakes near Jajce, Bosnia
Five kilometers from the town of Jajce is a photo op that will feel like you stepped into a hobbit world. The Mlinčići are small watermills that were once used for grinding grain. You can drive, take a taxi or bike to the lakeside park where the windmills are located near beach and swimming areas.
Dating back to the 16th century, the Mlinčići are no longer working grain mills. But it’s fun to explore them on a wooden walkway that allows for a few peeks inside. Admission is free with pay parking spots nearby.
The general area around Jajce is a popular destination for camping, river rafting and all kinds of family fun. Once you’re done sightseeing, you might want to stay longer to relax in the natural beauty and enjoy water sports.
Back in town, the ruins of a once-mighty fortress loom over Jajce. Medieval buildings and mosques blend with Yugo architecture to create a charming and friendly town above a magnificent waterfall.
Jajce Fortress and St. Mary Church
Jajce was the capital of the Kingdom of Bosnia in the 15th Century. Its fortress sits on a hill that was said to be shaped like an egg, hence the name of the town. It means “egg” in the Bosnian language. You can hike up to the remains of the fort, although there’s not much to see inside.
For a small fee you can walk on the fortress walls for panoramic views of the valley below. You can also look down on the ruins of Saint Mary’s Church. The last king of Bosnia was crowned here in 1461. Two years later, Ottoman Turks conquered the area, executed the king and turned the church into a mosque. Today, the church ruins are not open to the public but you can peek inside.
Catacomb in Jajce, Bosnia
A few steps away from the church walls and a fortification called the Bear Tower, you will see the entrance to the Jajce catacomb. It dates back to about 1400 and was the burial place of the noble Bosnian couple who founded the town. During World War II, the catacomb was a hiding place for partisan resistance fighters, including the future leader of Yugoslavia, Josip Broz Tito.
If you pay a small fee to go inside, you can barely make out what’s left of some carvings as you descend into the first underground chamber. Below it is another small cavern with a cross-shaped cutout that may be a grave or an underground church.
AVNOJ Museum: Yugoslavia History in Jajce
Jajce holds a place of honor in a country that no longer exists on the map.
In 1943, during some of the darkest days of World War II, resistance leaders met here to form the Anti-Fascist Council for the People’s Liberation of Yugoslavia, or AVNOJ. They agreed on principles that would allow for the post-war formation of Yugoslavia as a federation of participating states. This enabled the partisan fighters to gain desperately needed support from the Allied Forces.
Over time, the building served as a prison or a school and burned to the ground most recently during the 1990s Balkan War. Outside funding has enabled the preservation of the historical site you see today. For another look at the relics of the Cold War, check out my post on the abandoned Željava Air Base on the Croatia-Bosnia border.
The slogan “Death to Fascism, Freedom to the Nation” appears over a bust of Tito on stage in the main meeting hall with a portrait of Karl Marx prominently displayed nearby. It’s a must-see for Cold War history nerds. Exhibits detail the contributions of each country that became part of Yugoslavia after World War II.
Political Divide in Bosnia Today
While traveling within Bosnia (BiH), you will notice signs separating the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina from Republika Srpska. Since the 1995 Dayton Accords that ended the fighting here, most Bosnian Serbs live in the enclaves of Republika Srpska, where you will see the golden domes of Orthodox Christian churches.
Jajce is in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is majority Muslim with some Catholic Croats. You’ll see the soaring minarets of the mosques, hear the call to prayer and observe women in traditional head coverings. Politically, the division has resulted in a government that allows for representation from all sides.
Students from all parts of Bosnia-Herzegovina and neighboring countries grab their selfies at the Pliva Waterfall as they learn about the historic town of Jajce.
This uneasy truce is unlikely to affect your trip as long as you avoid discussions of politics or religion. It also means that BiH is unlikely to qualify for membership in the European Union anytime soon. However, you’ll see many public works projects funded by EU “cohesion” programs for their Bosnian neighbors.
Stranger Danger: Stay on marked paths, due to the remaining landmines in the surrounding landscape. Expect to have your passport or national ID checked when you cross the external border of Croatia with Bosnia, which is outside the Schengen Zone. Frequent patrols search for migrants illegally crossing into the EU and Schengen. Cross only at the official checkpoints.
Balkan Food: What to Eat in Jajce, Bosnia
Wherever you are in Bosnia, get ready for some amazing food. The local favorite is čevapčiči, minced meat sausages that can be made of beef, lamb or pork. Enjoy traditional cevap with lepinja bread, as well as side dishes of spicy red pepper ajvar and kajmak cheese butter.
Bosnia’s meat-heavy cuisine can be challenging for vegetarians, but you won’t go hungry with a grilled vegetable plate or the šopska solata — tomatoes and other veggies under a blanket of grated white cheese. Fish lovers will enjoy the fresh local trout, smothered in cheese sauce. True vegan food can be hard to find in this region.
I highly recommend venturing outside of town to the riverside Konoba Slapovi restaurant and eco-resort. You’ll enjoy excellent Bosnian cuisine with the peaceful sounds of the small waterfalls nearby. A friendly, English-speaking waiter informed us that credit cards are accepted, but that wasn’t the case at other restaurants.
Where to Stay in Jajce, Bosnia and Herzegovina
The few hotel choices in Jajce reflect its status as a hidden gem. The Hotel Stari Grad gets the top reviews in town. Although short on tourism infrastructure, visitors who spend the night will find lots of quirky charm.
We stayed at the friendly Apartmani Horizont. It offers private bedrooms that share a common kitchen and bath. Thanks for clicking on these Trip Advisor links to read the reviews and book your stay. Your clicks support this blog at NO cost to you.
We enjoyed this panaoramic view from a shared apartment in Jajce with the medieval fortress in the distance. Bosnia is a bargain for eating and sleeping, compared to elsewhere in Europe.
Terry’s Travel Tips for Jajce
What kind of money do they use in Jajce? The Bosnian Mark (BAM) is the local currency. We exchanged only the amount of US dollars and Euros that we planned to spend, because it can be difficult to change it back once you leave BiH. We found an exchange inside a grocery store. Most places will accept euros, but you might get change in BAM. Some places accept credit cards, but not all.
Sightseeing in Jajce: Surprisingly, sightseeing in Jajce wasn’t so cheap. Admissions for two people plus parking quickly added up to about $40 USD for the waterfall viewing platform, the fort, the catacomb and the Avnoj Museum. I didn’t mind spending a little cash as a contribution for the upkeep of the sites.
Jajce is on the tentative waiting list to join UNESCO world heritage, which would bring much needed support for the tourism infrastructure. Meanwhile, the town is doing the best it can. We saw construction crews working to keep the cute Mlinčići watermills from falling apart.
Getting Around in Jajce
We arrived from Slovenia in a rented car. From the main bus station in Jajce, you can easily walk to the main sights in town on both sides of the river. It’s a bit of a climb to the fort. We were glad we had a car to reach our accommodation at the top of a steep hill with free parking. You’ll need a car or bike to avoid a long walk to the Mlinčići and the lakes.
Language in Bosnia: Bosnian is similar to other Slavic languages such as Polish, Slovenian, Serbian or Croatian and even Russian, although only the Republika Srpska areas use the Cyrillic alphabet. Younger people working in tourism-related jobs tend to speak at least basic English.
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