Velika Planina is a high alpine pasture that has welcomed herders and their cows since the 1600s. Today, you can hike through this quaint village of rustic cottages, cheese and cowbells to enjoy panoramic views of the Julian Alps.
About 1600 meters above sea level (5250 feet), a day trip to Velika Planina’s mountain meadow is a refreshing escape from the sweltering summer temperatures in Slovenia’s capital city, Ljubljana.
Velika Planina is also a ski resort in the winter. And visitors flock here in the spring, when colorful wildflowers carpet the landscape. Watch the video and then read on to start planning your trip to Velika Planina.
- How to Get to Velika Planina
- What to See at Velika Planina
- Local Food and Traditions in Velika Planina
- Where to Stay in Velika Planina
How to Get to Velika Planina
By car: Velika Planina is less than an hour’s drive, 35 km from Ljubljana. Follow your GPS to the Velika Planina parking lot at the base of the cable car (Nihalka). Parking was free. If the lot fills up, there are more spaces across the street near the Kraljev Hrib guest house.
By Public Transport: More complicated and time-consuming but doable. Frequent trains and buses from Ljubljana will take you to the town of Kamnik. From there, you transfer to a bus for Kamniška Bistrica, but pay attention to the time. There are only a few buses per day. Check the schedule and buy tickets here. Guided tours from Ljubljana are another option.
There’s a parking lot at the base of the Velika Planina Cable Car. By public transit, take a bus or train to the nearby town of Kamnik, then a bus to the base at Kamniška Bistrica.
Cable Car and Chairlift: Once you’ve reached the base, stop at the ticket office. Check the pricelist here. At the time of my visit in 2024, an adult combination ticket for the cable car and chairlift was 26 euros. There are discounts for seniors, students and families. Dogs on leash are allowed with a 5 euro ticket.
Another option from the base is to hike up (more than three hours each way), or take only the cable car and walk from there (45 minutes on a steep path). It’s also possible to exit the chairlift at a halfway point and walk the rest of the way to the top.
Even if the cable car is crammed full of summer visitors, the view through the windows is full of splendid vistas of the Julian Alps.
What to See at Velika Planina
Herders’ Settlement: The collection of quaint, round huts is one of the largest herding settlements remaining in Europe. From June to September, there are still some cattle on Velika Planina. Make your way to the Pleskar Museum, a hut built after World War II in the traditional oval floor plan. Rustic tools decorate the inside, revealing the simple life on the mountaintop.
Chapel of Snow Mary: Slovenia’s famous architect Jože Plečnik designed the original chapel in 1938. It burned to the ground — along with about 100 of the original huts — by Germans in World War II. Local residents rebuilt the chapel in 1988. You can peek inside. It is open for a midnight mass at Christmas.
Taste Herders’ Food: A few neighboring huts offer typical alpine food like žganci (buckwheat mush) and trnič, a local round cheese that shepherds traditionally gave to their sweethearts. A few bloggers have tittered over the shape — similar to a woman’s breast. Zeleni Rob, near the halfway point of the chairlift, is the only full-service restaurant. It has some rooms for visitors staying overnight.
Trnič cheese was a traditional gift from herders to their sweethearts. The breast-shaped cheese was made in pairs for each of the lovers to keep one.
Staying in Velika Planina
It’s also possible to stay in the “koče” or huts. During the 1960s, companies in the former Yugoslavia built tourist cabins as getaways for their workers. Check the official Velika Planina website for offers. Or search vacation rentals on Trip Advisor to browse the features of the different koče, including hot tubs. Most of them are suited for groups or families. Be aware that you should plan to bring your own food, as the restaurant has limited hours and there is no shopping nearby. You can also find hotels in the nearby town of Kamnik.
Near the herders’ settlement are tourist accommodations. The traditional “koce” have modern conveniences like kitchens, bathrooms and hot tubs. It’s an ideal getaway for groups or families.
Terry’s Travel Tips
Travelers’ opinions of Velika Planina are mixed. While some call it a must-see in Slovenia, others are disappointed that what’s left of the herders’ settlement isn’t much more than a photo op background. For me, a day trip was enough to feel that I’d seen it.
I visited during a heat wave in Slovenia, when the cool mountain air was a welcome escape from the city temperatures and humidity. But it’s also peak tourist season, when you can expect to be crammed into the cable car with lots of other visitors.
I’d love to return for the spring flowers, or even stay the night in a hut during the winter ski season. There’s plenty to do all year round, so start planning your Slovenia adventure now.
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