I took my first Viking River Cruise and it wasn’t what I was expecting.
Here’s my honest review of the pros and cons after an eight-day Viking River Cruise on the Rhone River in France from Avignon to Lyon.
Why Cruise with Viking?
Viking does a lot of advertising to its primary audience: North Americans traveling without kids under 18. The Viking River Cruise ads always struck me as a bit snobby and too good to be true. This ad shows scenes from the Rhine in Germany and the Danube in Hungary, but we had already visited those places on land-based family vacations. With our son now an adult who prefers to do his own thing, I wanted to visit a French region that was new to my husband and me.
Years ago my family had our worst vacation ever on one of those gigantic ocean cruise ships. We felt crammed into a tiny stateroom. Our pre-teen son hated the kids’ activities. Meal times were a choice between a long buffet line or awkward assigned seating in a formal dining room. Shore excursions were rushed and the shows were tacky. We felt like doing anything required an extra charge or a hefty tip.
So I swore I’d never cruise again. Until friends started telling us how much they enjoyed river cruising on smaller ships. To be fair, my family has enjoyed a Nile cruise in Egypt and a magical trip through Vietnam’s Bai Tu Long bay on a traditional junk. But I still hate those massive cruise ships which bring the over-tourism that is damaging some of Europe’s favorite destinations. I was eager to see if a Viking River Cruise might be a more enjoyable — and sustainable — way to travel.
How To Book a Viking River Cruise
There are many river cruise lines to choose from: AMA, Amadeus, Avalon, just to name a few. My friend the travel agent said she could throw in a few perks because of a promotion for the most popular river cruise line: Viking. It only cost $50 to nail down a reservation for my husband and me, with the balance due in a few months.
Getting the Silver Spirits package for free was a perk of booking our Viking River Cruise through my friend the travel agent. It included premium wines and cocktails and even my husband’s Diet Coke — which would be extra without the package. Nice to have, if you’d like some adult beverages beyond the beer and wine included with meals. Another promotional perk was the Prepaid Gratuities package. It meant we never had to worry about tipping, but we brought some extra cash to tip a few crew members who went above and beyond to take care of us.
The downside of booking with a travel agent? A lot of pressure to buy airfare through Viking and sign up for pricey travel insurance. I resisted the hard sell because I already have travel insurance through my Chase credit card. Booking airfare with Viking didn’t allow me to make use of my frequent flier status or earn airline miles for the round trip in business class.
I made my own travel arrangements from Miami on TAP Air Portugal, connecting through Lisbon to Marseille. From there it was a short train ride to join the Viking River Cruise in Avignon.
We bought the SNCF train ticket online. At Marseille airport, we had to go to a kiosk to buy another ticket for the shuttle to the train station. The bus pulled over in the middle of nowhere next to a train track with no station, just a ticket machine. Five minutes later a train pulled up and we got on. Fortunately, I remembered enough of my college French to ask someone if it was the right train!
Don’t Miss the Boat! Sleepover in Avignon
We arrived one day early to allow for any air transportation delays or lost luggage. Everything went smoothly and we enjoyed having a little extra time to stroll around the walled city. I just had to go to the Pont d’Avignon to do the little dance I learned in school. Historically, people did not dance on the bridge but there was plenty of drinking and gambling under the bridge. Watch the video here.
The Pont d’Avignon is the bridge made famous by the song every kid learns in French class. For some reason it wasn’t on the Viking River Cruise walking tour of Avignon. Pro tip: research each port of call to make sure the included tour doesn’t skip something you really wanted to see.
I highly recommend staying at the Hotel D’Europe. The historic property is one of the oldest hotels in Europe. It also had the advantage of being literally steps away from the Viking River Cruise dock. Watch this video to take a look inside. We used Uber to get from the Avignon train station to the hotel with our luggage. Easy peasy, even for my husband who doesn’t speak a word of French. There are lots of hotel choices in Avignon at various price points.
Boarding our Viking River Cruise in Avignon
Viking crew members were waiting on the sidewalk to welcome us onto the ship. They whisked away our luggage and it magically reappeared later in our stateroom. But first, a buffet lunch in the ship’s restaurant and some free time to get our bearings. It was our first taste of not only the food but also the high level of service that was attentive without being pushy.
No surprises with our veranda stateroom on a middle deck with a small balcony. It looked exactly like in the brochure with a comfy bed and compact bathroom. Note to Viking: no need for that beautiful fruit basket with so much else to eat on the ship!
Getting on and off the ship is easy. Just tap your room key at the security checkpoint when you enter or leave. We had already passed through immigration into the EU Schengen Zone when we changed planes in Lisbon. There were no more immigration checks because all of our Viking River Cruise ports were in France. Big contrast from the long waiting times when giant cruise ships visit multiple countries with thousands of passengers!
Note that Viking does not make public announcements about when the ship is leaving port. It’s on you to stay informed with the ship’s newsletter delivered to your cabin and daily briefings in the lounge. Or just ask at the front desk. We watched the safety briefing on the TV in our cabin. The only time we heard a ship-wide announcement was when some idiot failed to “tap in” so the ship could depart with everyone accounted for.
YouTube Video Review of Viking River Cruise
For an overview of our Viking River Cruise, watch this VIDEO and then read on for details about the included daily excursions, food, and some helpful travel tips.
Daily Excursions on the Viking River Cruise
My husband and I are not tour bus people. We prefer exploring on our own. We decided to sign up for the included Viking River Cruise excursions that were mostly in the morning and do our own thing in the afternoon. That said, the group tours exceeded my expectations. Audio headsets made it easy to hear the guide’s commentary. There are options for more active travelers and those with mobility issues who might prefer a “leisurely” pace. Due to my recent knee injury we chose the moderate fitness level. Each of the tours made it back to the boat in time for lunch.
Van Gogh and Roman Ruins in Arles
The walking tour of Arles traced the footsteps of artist Vincent Van Gogh. We visited the sites that inspired some of his most famous works, including the place where he painted “Sunflowers” and cut off his ear — delivering it to a woman at a nearby brothel that is now a Monoprix grocery store. Van Gogh painted the hospital where he recovered before being transferred to a mental health facility.
The well-preserved Roman amphitheater in Arles is still in use for the local version of bullfighting. The bull is not killed, but it’s life-threatening for the young men competing to snatch ribbons from the animal’s horns without being gored.
Palace of the Popes in Avignon
Back to the walled city of Avignon for a detailed look inside the Palace of the Popes. Popes and cardinals lived a lavish life here for 70 years during the 1300s. Except for a few painted rooms, the massive buildings were stripped of papal treasures after the popes returned to Rome and the palace became a military barracks.
Medieval Town of Viviers
The walking tour of the winding cobblestone streets led us to the smallest active cathedral in France. Without too much effort we made it to the top of the rock and a splendid view of the Rhone Valley. The fortified town suffered greatly during the Wars of Religion, when Catholics and Protestants fought each other in the 16th century. Today it depends on tourism and seemed almost dead during our off-season visit in October.
As we headed back to the boat for lunch, I reflected on the fact that cruise passengers don’t contribute much to the local economy because they eat and sleep on the ship. While sailing en route to the next port, an afternoon tea time set the stage for our Viking River Cruise director, Oliver, to promote the benefits of booking our next cruise while we were still on board this one. His extremely outgoing personality was impossible to ignore as you can see in this video.
Tournon Steam Train in the Ardêche
After three days of walking tours, the Tournon steam train was a real change of pace. A real-life Thomas the Tank Engine, the narrow-gauge line opened in 1891 and closed due to financial difficulties in the 1960s. It operates today as a “heritage line.” The locomotive huffed and puffed along the scenic gorges of the Doux River, which are mostly inaccessible by car. Even if you’re not a huge train buff, It was interesting to watch the engine spin on the turntable at the end of the line to get in position for the return trip.
Night Walk in Vienne
This well preserved Roman temple was the highlight of the night time walk through the ancient town of Vienne. An atmospheric way to experience yet another historic town on the Rhone River without venturing too far from the ship.
Lyon “Panoramic” Tour
I wasn’t expecting much from the “panoramic” tour of Lyon, which can be cruise-ship code for a boring bus ride around the city. Once again, the Viking River Cruise exceeded my expectations. The bus was only there to give us a lift to the major sights. After some commentary from the guide, we were free to explore on our own.
The grand Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere is one of the most inspiring church interiors I’ve seen in Europe. A WOW moment.
It was also fun to explore the traboules, passageways connecting adjacent streets and recalling the city’s history as a center of silk manufacturing. Signs ask that visitors remain quiet out of respect for the residents of the apartments inside.
Food and Beverages on the Viking River Cruise
Lyon is also celebrated for its food. It is the home of legendary chef Paul Bocuse, but also the humble bouchon hole-in-the-wall places serving local home cooking. Again, coming here on a cruise means you won’t be sampling the land-based cuisine unless you skip a meal on the ship.
And who would want to skip a meal with this million dollar view from the Viking Buri terrace? Our docking location in Lyon put us right in the heart of France’s third largest city. Yup, just like it says in the commercial.
The Viking River cruise menu offered plenty of choices for both vegetarians (like me) and meat-lovers (like my husband). Each evening, the on-board chef would describe the special regional dishes of the day, but familiar favorites like steak, burgers, salmon and salade nicoise were always available. Of course, we couldn’t say no to the classic French desserts.
The included wine at lunch and dinner was the reliable red and white from La Vielle Ferme, a familiar French brand widely sold in the US. Having the Silver Spirits package allowed me to sample the rosé vintages from the local area at no extra charge. We only stayed up a few nights for the entertainment but we enjoyed the silly game night and I even won a prize!
Beaujolais Wine Country
An included trip to Beaujolais wine country was the perfect ending to our Viking River Cruise. The bus ride through the rolling hills allowed us to admire the fall colors in the vineyards and stroll through the town of Beaujeu. We also experienced Lyon’s legendary traffic jams on the way back to the ship.
At the Chateau de Varennes, the same family has been making wine since 1809. We tasted some surprising white wines in a region that is known primarily for its reds. We also learned that the celebrated “beaujolais nouveau” is actually some of the area’s lower quality table wine. Although It started as a marketing stunt to help winemakers in the aftermath of World War II, the arrival of the “new” wine is still celebrated around the world.
Departure from the Viking Buri
Leaving the Viking Buri was just as organized as the rest of the voyage. We left our luggage outside our cabin to be picked up and stored according to our time of departure. With the Silver Spirits and Prepaid Gratuities, our balance at checkout was exactly zero. We brought cash to tip extra to the cabin attendant who tided up our room every day and a kind young server from Bulgaria who brought us breakfast daily on the terrace.
Lesson Learned: I booked my own travel for the day after the Viking River Cruise ended. I didn’t realize the schedule allowed passengers to depart for their onward journey on the last day. Although we could have booked a pricey private airport transfer through Viking, the front desk advised us to hail an Uber to get to the airport.
We spent a boring evening at the NH Hotel in the Lyon Airport, which met our needs for a quick overnight. But we ended up going across the parking lot to the nearby Moxy Hotel to get something to eat. After being pampered on the ship, it was a shock to be traveling again in the real world.
Terry’s Travel Tips
What stateroom to book? We liked our veranda stateroom on a middle deck, but the balcony was useless at times when another ship docked next to the Viking Buri, blocking the view. I’d be okay with one of the cheaper French balcony cabins, but my husband swears it would be worth the money to move up to a suite for a little more space. We didn’t have much use for the roof deck, which has a few lounge chairs and a running track.
It pays to get up early! Most days we were the only people on the terrace for breakfast when it opened at 6:30 am with a healthy selection of fruit, yogurt, cheeses and meat to go along with the pastries and cooked-to-order egg dishes. We also appreciated the 24-hour espresso coffee machine.
Getting up early to have breakfast while going through a lock was one of the coolest things about our Viking River Cruise.
Have a table strategy. In gorgeous fall weather, the terrace became our favorite place to dine. But there are no assigned seats on a Viking River Cruise. Getting an outdoor table for two or four was competitive at lunch and dinner. We found ourselves racing back from excursions to claim a spot. Sometimes we ended up in the more formal dining room. We felt boxed in at the long tables where it was difficult to hear conversations and preferred the smaller round tables by the windows.
Hello Boomers! The average age of Viking River Cruise passengers is somewhere over 60. As a couple of active seniors, we fit right in. A few younger adults were there with their parents. Viking is not an option for families with children and the price point is a bit steep for most younger couples. The Americans avoided talking politics, and we learned to avoid the Canadians who wanted to lecture us about news events in Washington DC.
Terry’s Final Thoughts
Overall, the Viking River Cruise felt like a relaxing and responsible way to travel. It was nice to see local produce, knowledgable local guides, and local entertainers during the evening activities. But the economic downturn was obvious in some of the towns. Except for a few small souvenirs we spent almost no money off the ship.
You can read more in my FREE monthly travel newsletter about sustainable travel in Europe and the world. It’s easy to subscribe by clicking on the box on the right hand side at the top of this post. It goes straight to your inbox with zero advertising. I do get a small commission from Trip Advisor if you click on the hotel links in this post to browse and book. I paid for my Viking River Cruise and this review reflects my honest opinion as a customer.
The Viking River Cruise was NOT what I expected — in a good way. In fact, we liked it so much that we decided to do it again next year in the Bordeaux wine region. Have you sailed with Viking? Let me know in the comments.
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