Ptuj is the oldest and craziest town in Slovenia. And yet most tourists have never heard of it.
In this post you will discover Ptuj’s Roman history, cool jazz vibes and great wine. Plus the crazy Kurentovanje — the UNESCO world heritage carnival where guys dress in sheepskins, shake their cowbells and chase away the winter.
First, watch this VIDEO from my visit to Ptuj and then get the details of how to plan your trip.
How to Pronounce “Ptuj”
Puh-TOO-ee. Do it really fast, like you are trying to spit something out with your tongue behind your front teeth. Don’t worry if you need a little practice to get it right. The Daily Mail reported that “Ptuj” is the world’s most difficult city name for English-speakers to pronounce.
Looking down from Ptuj castle you can admire the town’s red rooftops along the Drava River. The railroad built by the Austrian-Hungarian empire in the 1800s bypassed the town completely, allowing Ptuj to retain a quirky, historic charm that has enduried through two World Wars and the Yugoslavia times.
How to Get to Ptuj
Renting a car is the easiest way to get to Ptuj and the surrounding Haloze wine region. It’s less than a two-hour drive from Ljubljana, Slovenia’s charming capital city. Across the border, the Croatian capital city of Zagreb is only about an hour away.
Without a car, getting to Ptuj can be even more difficult than pronouncing the name. There’s no reliable public transit from Ljubljana that doesn’t involve changing buses or trains. But it’s possible to book a car and driver for your trip if you’d rather not drive.
Get an up-close look at the furry costumes of the kurentovanje in the museum at Ptuj castle and a small museum in town. Local boys used to make their own costumes with materials gathered from nearby farms. Today the tradition carries on with help from local artisans and materials from all over Europe.
Best Time to Visit Ptuj
Kurentovanje is the Slovenian version of Carnival or Mardi Gras at the beginning of Lent. It lasts for 11 days in February or early March. The town of less than 20,000 people becomes an open-air museum of living UNESCO world heritage with more than 100,000 spectators. Plan ahead to sign up for a Kurentovanje tour months in advance and book a hotel in Ptuj.
Ptuj is enjoyable any time of year. I visited with local tour guide Špela Težak and sommelier Boris Vukobrat. The wine-hopping tour combines local vintages with the town’s landmarks and history. There’s also a Ptuj and Haloze vineyard tour of the beautiful surrounding countryside. Spending time with people who are passionate about Ptuj made for an unforgettable experience in pleasant springtime weather.
A sunset stroll through Ptuj with a view of St. George’s Church. Across the street on the right is the bar that was the favorite hangout of Napoleon’s troops, still serving thirsty guests today.
Where to Stay and Eat in Ptuj
Ptuj also has a long tradition of summer concerts and music festivals, inviting performers from all over the world. I stayed at the family-run MuzikCafe House of Culture. This welcoming inn features a delicious farm-to table breakfast, a relaxing courtyard garden and a jazz club in the basement.
To taste the food specialties of the region, we stopped at Gostilna Rozika in the center of town. Browse reviews of other places to stay in and around Ptuj.
Kurentovanje Museums in Ptuj
If you can’t get to Ptuj for the Kurentovanje carnival, no problem! There are several museums where you can admire the costumes and learn more about the traditions. Ptuj Castle has a room devoted to traditional Kurentovanje costumes from all over the region.
Inside Ptuj castle is a museum of Kurentovanje showing a variety of the traditional costumes and activities. The films will give you some idea of the crazy streets of Ptuj during kurentovanje. Women of all ages — but especially the single ladies — get extra special attentiion from the furry kurents.
In the town, you can also visit Kurent House Museum. Guided tours of the small museum are available but limited to 15 people at a time, so reservations are recommended.
More Treasures of Ptuj Castle
Ptuj castle is worth a visit — and not only because of the panoramic views. It’s a trip through local history. The last lord died in 1438 leaving behind only his gravestone. You could spend hours wandering through the art gallery and the splendid rooms of the Austrian aristocracy.
The graceful courtyard of Ptuj castle is the gateway to a maze of rooms that showcase every era of local history, from Roman times to the Austrian-Hungarian empire. I wished I had allowed more time to learn more about the fascinating artworks and artifacts on display.
In Ptuj Castle you can see he remains of a flute from the 2nd or 3rd century when Ptuj was known in the Roman empire as Poetovio.
Roman History in Ptuj
Ptuj dates back to the year 69 AD. Most guided tours begin in Slovenski Trg (Slovenian Square). One of the town’s great treasures is the Orpheus stone, a relic from the 2nd century. The nearby 16th century bell tower has Roman artifacts embedded in its walls, making the town itself an open-air museum.
The Orpheus monument is the gravestone of the man who was mayor of Poetovio in the 2nd century. In the middle ages it was the place where lawbreakers were put to shame by the townspeople.
Ptuj burned to the ground five times, until the townspeople built a monument to St. Florian, the patron saint of firefighters, who has kept the town safe over the centuries. Today the saint watches over the city hall.
Ptuj Wine Cellar
Ptuj has been known as a wine-making center since Roman times. Today it is the home of the wine archive, Ptujska Klet. It is one of the most significant wine cellars in Central Europe. You can book a tour and tasting here.
Ptuj managed to keep this historic wine archive secret from thirsty German occupiers during World War II. After the war it was Yugoslavia’s busiest wine-bottling plant. Today it is home to the Pullus brand of wines from the Stajerska region.
Haloze Wine Tasting Region
Winetasting in Haloze is a great reason to spend several days exploring the beautiful countryside near Ptuj.
Sommelier Boris Vukobrat was my guide to the wineries on the steep hillsides. Watch this video of his Ultimate Wine Tasting Experience in Ljubljana. He discovers the best wines from family-owned vineyards throughout Slovenia and promotes them on his website.
In Haloze, you’ll discover unique local white wines like laški riesling and the light red blaufrankisch, also known as modra frankinja — one of my favorites! Book a vineyard tour here.
Tasting laški riesling at a hilltop winery with sommelier Boris Vukobrat and wine-maker Primož Kramer. A perfect pairing with local meats and cheeses — and an unforgettable view of vineyards reaching all the way to the clouds. “This is my favorite place on earth,” Primož says.
Ptujska Gora Church of Mary the Protectoress
And there’s more than just wine-tasting. On a hilltop just outside Ptuj is the basilica of Mary the Protectoress. The extraordinary 15th century woodcarving on the altar shows the faces of the townspeople. They credited the Virgin Mary with surrounding their village with a thick fog to protect it from Turkish invaders. It still inspires pilgrims today.
This extraordinary woodcarving from the 15th century still draws busloads of pilgrims to the tiny village of Ptujska Gora.
Nearby is the medieval castle Grad Borl. Once a strategic location by the Drava river, it passed through the hands of various lords over the centuries and became a resort during the Yugoslavia times, only to be abandoned again. Interpol is still searching for the altarpiece that was stolen from the baroque chapel. With renovations underway, this hidden gem is once again open to visitors and special events.
Grad Borl occupies a strategic location near the Drava River. Just one of the unexpected discoveries in the region around Slovenia’s oldest town, Ptuj.
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The hilltop church of St. Anne offers a panoramic and romantic view of the Haloze wine tasting region. Thank you, Boris and Špela for an unforgettable trip!
